What And WhyPower-to-Weight. Power-to-Weight. Power-to-Weight. Repeat three times and then do it again. As any successful racer will tell you, vehicle weight is as important as, if not more so, than power. Now don't get upset. We're still certifiable horsepower junkies. But to wring maximum performance from a car, you have to consider the ratio of engine output to total vehicle weight. A bunch of ponies under the hood won't help if they're forced to pull a bloated, overweight car around town or the track.
You might remember last time in this series when we swapped a Japanese Domestic Market (JDM) B16A into a 1992 Civic CX. The power output of the engine was impressive, but the overall weight of the Civic was less than ideal. The end result was a much better than stock system, but we were in the mood for an even lighter project car. Enter the red 1986 CRX Si shown here. With a stock curb weight of less than 2,000 lbs, the CRX is an extremely light car. Transplanting an equally lightweight, high-output engine into this featherweight chassis would result in a fantastic power-to-weight ratio and stellar performance. Or so we hoped.
The engine we sourced for the swap was a 5-million series first-generation B16A, which is available in Japanese-spec 1989-91 Civics and CRX SiRs. We had the option of using a 1-million-series B16A from a 1990-'93 Integra (like we did last month in our Civic CX project), but the 5-million B16A comes from the factory with a taller final drive ratio. While sacrificing a minor torque advantage off the line, the taller drive ratio should give us better top end performance. The other advantage to the 5-million-series B16A engines is that you can source one with a limited-slip differential (LSD). Couple this with the factory 160-hp output, and you'll understand why these engines are so popular for swap projects.
Our recipient for this transplant was a red 1986 CRX Si. This particular car already had a host of suspension goodies installed, but it was still running a stock EW-type 1.5-liter, 12-valve powerplant. This engine cranks out around 92 hp, which isn't too bad for pulling a 1,900-lb car around town, but there's always room for more ponies under the hood. The car would be used primarily for daily-driver duties, but the owner also wanted to be able to autocross the car and occasionally make a quick pass or two down the quarter-mile. With a 160 hp available from the B16A, and a finished vehicle weight of only 1900 lbs or so (with a little performance-oriented de-contenting), the combination should be very potent. Remember our mantra? Power-to-weight, power-to-weight, power-to-weight. But, can you also say, "Yeeeeee-Hawww!?"
Picking The ChassisThe third generation '86-'87 Civic Si and '85-'87 CRX Si are very different cars than the fourth-, fifth-, and sixth-generation Civics that made Honda into the aftermarket powerhouse it is. Before the sophisticated four-wheel, double-wishbone suspension there were MacPherson struts with torsion bars in the front and, horror of horrors, a solid beam axle in the rear.
Picking a car is pretty easy: Get an Si. The DX and HF models are carbureted, meaning there is no engine management wiring harness and the fuel pump is inadequate. The only disadvantage to the Si is that they all have sunroofs, so if you are concerned about headroom or saving every last little ounce, a lower model car may be preferable. Locating and swapping the wiring harness and fuel pump is a large job, however, so you have to really hate sunroofs to take this route.
Because of their age, rust can be a bit of a problem, so inspect any candidate thoroughly. The plastic nose of the car also tends to get brittle after 15 years, so be careful not to crack it.
Basic as it is, this chassis is incredibly light (1,978 lbs for the CRX Si, 2,044 lbs for the Civic Si) and therefore surprisingly capable on the track. A successful race history means that torsion bars, springs, anti-roll bars and shocks are still available. HASport offers 24mm and 27mm front torsion bars (stock is 21mm), both Tokico and Koni offer shocks, and Suspension Techniques has anti-roll bars.
The dramatic increase in speed from the B16 swap will necessitate bigger brakes. Luckily, the front brakes are interchangeable with the fourth-generation '88 to '91 Civic DX, which means any brake upgrades available for the fourth-generation Civic will also work on this one. In the rear, the Civic/CRX drums can be upgraded to discs from the '86 to '89 Integra.
Picking The EngineB16s have been produced in mass quantities since 1989, with surprisingly few changes. The B16 was available in the JDM Integra from 1989 to 1993, and in the Civic and CRX SiR from 1989 to 2000. Integra engines can be identified by the serial number on the front of the block (directly below the "B16A"). If the number starts with a "1" (a 1-million series engine), it came from an Integra. If it starts with a "5" (a 5-million series engine), it came from a Civic SiR.
Integra transmissions have a slightly shorter final drive, resulting in better off-the-line acceleration at the expense of top speed. Some of the SiR transmissions, on the other hand, came with limited-slip differentials. All the engines made up to '91 made 160 hp, while the '92-and-later SiR engines made 170 hp, thanks to slightly more aggressive cams and slightly higher compression (10.4:1 vs. 10.2:1). The later SiR engines can be identified by their gray electrical connectors. Earlier engines have white connectors.
The '92-and-later engines also have different engine mounts and will actually bolt in without a mount kit. The engine sourced for this swap is a first-generation B16A from a Japanese Domestic Market (JDM) 1990-'93 Integra, so it requires a HASport mount kit (or some fabrication) to install. Even considering the cost of the mount kit, the earlier engines are usually the less expensive choice. An early B16A goes for about $1,000 with a transmission and ECU; later powertrains go for $2,500 or more.
Because the third-generation Civic/CRX uses a cable-actuated clutch, you have to use a transmission that is so equipped. Later transmissions with hydraulic clutches won't work. If you are buying the engine and transmission together, this means you must source the drivetrain from an '89 to '91 JDM Civic or CRX SiR, or a '90 to '93 Integra from either the US or Japan. U.S. Integras, of course, will have a 1.7-liter B17.
If you source the engine and transmission separately, you can use any B-series engine, including the B18C from the Integra, the B18C5 from the Integra Type R, or even the B20 from the CR-V. If you use a GS-R engine, however, the intake manifold will hit the firewall, requiring a little massaging with a hammer. (Massage the firewall, not the manifold!)
Who And WhereJust like we did for the last couple of Honda swaps in this series, we called on HASport Performance in Phoenix, Ariz. for help. HASport is an aftermarket supplier of engine swap equipment, and it manufactures a direct bolt-in kit for dropping the B16A into third-generation CRXs like ours. In addition, they also sell a wiring harness that takes the pain out of hooking up things like the new VTEC hardware and knock-sensor.
We spent a weekend in Brian Gillespie's shop in Phoenix while his crew skillfully installed a low-mileage JDM B16A into the car and wired it up. We used HASport's M84-B16-10 mount kit, which comes with all the hardware needed to bolt the new engine in place. We also used HASport's electrical harness (part number W84-B16) to corral the electrons. You can easily modify your own existing harness, but HASport's kit meant one less thing we had to worry about. We also installed HASport's shifter rods (part number L84-B16A) and a set of custom axles (part number A84-B16). There's also a bunch of miscellaneous stuff like sensors and radiator hoses that need to be purchased from a salvage yard or Honda to complete the swap. We've included a table at the beginning of each major section that list most of these parts. Additionally, you might have to scrounge a few minor things along the way, depending of course on the condition of the car and donor engine.
OK, that's the good news: You can buy all the parts needed for this high-power engine transplant through a combination of aftermarket suppliers like HASport, salvage yards, and your friendly Honda parts counter. But alas, there's some not-so-good news that requires consideration. The biggest problem is climate control: Air conditioning is going to be hard to retain with this engine/transmission combination. To be perfectly frank, this engine is a very tight squeeze into the tiny CRX engine bay. The B16A completely fills the bay, and to keep your A/C will mean a whole bunch of additional work. We're not saying it's impossible (a number of cars we know of have pulled it off with this swap), but it's enough of a pain that we decided to forgo it on this particular car.
Engine Removal And Car Prep WorkAssuming you've got all your parts purchased and a well-organized place to work, the first thing that needs to be addressed is removal of the old CRX drivetrain. As we've mentioned before in this series, the factory manual is the ideal reference for yanking a stock engine, but most car-specific workshop manuals (e.g., Haynes, Clymer, etc.) have entire chapters dedicated to removing engines. These texts cover all of the required steps for pulling the stock engine, transmission, and all the associated under-hood paraphernalia. The trick, as always, is to take your time, stay organized, and try not to break anything.
Assuming you've got the old engine and transmission out, you have to address a few other things. The front wheels and tires should be removed and the car securely placed on jack stands and blocks. The rear engine mount bracket has to be removed from the cross member, and the front suspension knuckles and hubs on both sides have to come out. The stock hubs won't bolt-up properly (even with the new custom axles). We'll be replacing the stock parts with 1986-'89 Integra pieces, which are a direct bolt-in system. (An added benefit of using new hubs is that you can also use the larger Integra disc brakes on the new hubs. This isn't necessary to complete the swap, but it makes for an easy upgrade while you have everything apart.)
Next, remove the hood from the car. If you're installing the engine from underneath, this step isn't really necessary, but if you're installing the engine through the top of the engine bay, you will have to do this. Honda uses restrictors to keep the hood from rotating completely to a vertical position. To allow the B16A to clear everything on its trip down into the engine bay, you will have to pull the hood.
Remove the emissions control box, which is located on the left inner fender well. We will only be using the purge cut-off solenoid to control the emission purge canister, so we don't require any of the other stuff in the control box. We also don't need the external coil mounted on the left upper firewall. Deep six both of these items after you get them out of the car.
Now is also the time to remove the stock CRX clutch cable. We will be replacing the CRX piece with a 1988 Civic cable that has the correct end fitting required to mate with the B16A. The same goes for the throttle cable-pull the old one out and throw it away. It will be replaced with a 1990 Integra unit that has the correct fittings for the new engine.
The stock shifter will work with the new engine, but the stock shift rods aren't quite long enough. You should remove them from the car at this stage. For our car, we'll be replacing the shift rods with HASport custom rods after we get the engine back in the car.
At this point you should also temporarily remove the electric radiator fan. The radiator is tucked safely out of harm's way underneath the front core support sheet metal, but the fan isn't. Having this rather awkward and delicate item removed from the car will make engine installation a whole lot easier when it comes time to lower the B16A into place. The hood-latch support brace should also be taken out of the car for the same reason.
As we mentioned earlier, you should probably plan on pulling all of the A/C stuff from the car. After the A/C equipment has come out of the car, it's a good time to feed the new wiring sub-harness (see the Engine Management section later in this article) through the firewall. Waiting until after the engine is installed in the car to run these wires is a bad mistake. It can be done, but it isn't going to be easy. Put the harness in now.
The return-side flex fuel line coming off of the fuel rail is too short in the stock CRX configuration. Remove the fuel line and throw it away (make sure you open the gas tank first to vent the system). The old hose will be replaced with an aftermarket low-pressure hose after we get the engine mounted.
The next two steps involve some cutting and bashing. First is the cutting modification required on the CRX battery tray. The HASport transmission bracket that bolts to the right frame rail interferes with the gusset under the rear of the battery tray. It's a simple matter to remove the battery tray and cut off the offending sheet metal gusset. Don't worry about losing strength in the tray and unexpectedly dropping the battery somewhere along the road, however. The new transmission bracket that will be mounted directly underneath the battery tray helps carry the weight of the battery.
The bashing modification required for the swap involves what mechanics like to call a "BFH," or a Big F***ing Hammer. The alternator pulley on the new B16A interferes with the left frame rail. We need to create a 3-inch wide, by 3/4-inch deep indentation in the inside portion of the frame rail. The easiest way to do this is with a large ball-peen hammer. The sheet metal in the frame rail at this point is relatively thin, and the required dent is easily made (and no, this step is not as horrible as it sounds).
One of the last car prep things to do is to remove the harness from the old engine and carefully mark each of the connectors (e.g., connector "X" is the alternator; connector "Y" is the starter, and so forth). The idea is to have a well-labeled engine harness that is easily understood and modified when it's transplanted onto the new engine. This is particularly helpful when re-routing the various wire leads to new locations on the B16A.
As always, the final thing you should do before moving on to working on the new engine is to spend some time and elbow grease cleaning up (and painting, if necessary) the Civic engine bay. A little time spent now making things pretty will pay off later, when the huge engine is sitting in the car.
Mounting The New Engine And TransmissionBefore installing the new B16A engine, it's a good time to consider changing its clutch. Removing and Replacing (R&R) the clutch at this point is much easier to do than later, when it is sitting in the car. This is one of those cheap insurance deals. You don't want to find out that the clutch needs replacement the first weekend after you finally get the car back on the road, do you?
Another obvious thing to R&R is the timing belt and water pump. Again, this may not be necessary, but the peace of mind that comes with new parts will be worth the extra effort and money spent.
Next, pull all of the engine mounting hardware and brackets from the new engine. Don't forget the left-side mount bracket that hangs off the side of the block. Now is also the time to strip the remaining unnecessary parts and equipment that have to temporarily (or permanently) come off the engine. Start with the A/C compressor (if it is equipped with one) and pull the power steering pump, too. You won't be using either of these pieces without a lot of additional work. And while you're at it, carefully remove the throttle body from the intake manifold and seal off the big opening on the end of the plenum with tape or a plastic bag. When lowering the engine into the car, it's all too easy to hit the delicate Throttle Position Sensor (TPS) that's attached to the throttle body. The TPS isn't readily available in the United States without spending some serious bucks, so this is also one of those cheap-insurance things.
Next, pull the Vehicle Speed Sensor (VSS) from the transmission. It needs to be replaced with a true, cable-type speedometer sending unit from a 1988-'91 CRX. Also, temporarily remove the exhaust manifold from the engine. This isn't strictly necessary, but it helps when shoehorning the big engine into the small engine bay. It's a five-minute job to take this part off, and it will save you a lot of frustration later when the engine is swinging on a chain above the car.
The HASport mounting kit can now be pre-installed on the engine and car. First, attach the new rear engine mount to the rear crossmember in the car. Then attach the steel transmission mount bracket to the right frame rail. This will reside directly underneath the battery tray that we previously modified (don't install the battery tray yet). Install the new transmission mount to the top of the transmission and then put the left front mounting bracket onto the front of the engine. Do not install the left-side mount, however. Because the B16A is so big relative to the CRX engine bay, and because the tolerances are so tight on the various machined HASport pieces, it's best to leave this out until after the engine is positioned correctly.
Like some of the other engine swaps that we have talked about in this series, installing the new engine is easier from the bottom than the top. This is the way Honda does it in the factory, and if you have a vehicle lift available, it's generally easier to bring in the engine from underneath, rather than down from the top. But don't worry: Lowering the drivetrain in through the hood isn't all that much harder, and only requires a few additional steps.
This Is How It's Done:To lift the engine on a cherry picker, you can use the factory-lifting tab on the right front top of the transmission. For the second lifting point, we used the big tapped hole on the left rear of the cylinder head. Be careful with routing your lifting straps or chains across the engine, however. If you're not careful, it's easy to damage things like the distributor and VTEC solenoids. The key (again) is to go slowly and tweak the lifting cable lengths so the engine hangs level.
Now, lift the engine/transmission, stopping for a moment with the engine in the air to install the '99 Si rear engine bracket and attach the top bolt on the engine side and to the rear mount. Next, lower the engine into place. Once everything lines up and is sitting in the right place, bolt up the right side mount and install the left-side engine mount, attach all the hardware, and then tighten everything to spec. Once this is done, the lifting straps or chains can be removed and all the mounting hardware fully tightened.
Connecting The DrivetrainYou've got the engine and transmission bolted in place. The next big hurdle is getting all that power to the front tires and wheels. The bad news is that you can't use either the old CRX axles or the new B16A ones. The good news is there is a bolt-in solution. In our case, we used HASport's custom axle shafts, which were designed specifically for this swap. These are bulletproof parts that are machined from AISI-4130 billet steel. We also used an intermediate shaft from a 1990 Integra and CV joints from a 1986-'89 Integra to transmit the power. Finally, we had to change out the CRX hubs and knuckles. The stock parts won't bolt-up properly, even with the new custom axles. We R&R'd the stock hubs with salvage yard 1986-'89 Integra units.
Engine ManagementFor our CRX, we used HASport's wiring kit, which pre-addresses all the wiring harness changes. It's pretty straightforward to make the required mods without a kit, but sometimes it's easier just to buy a pre-made wire package than roll your own. Either way works.
The first thing that needs addressing is the issue of the new, internal coil B16A distributor. We've already removed the firewall-mounted coil from the CRX, but we need to modify our harness to bring the power wire that went to the old coil over to the distributor location on the engine. This isn't a big deal, but it's easy to overlook. We also have to add three additional wires to the engine harness for the distributor; one wire for the igniter signal, and two for the cylinder sensor (pulse and ground). Don't forget you will have to convert the old connector to the new B16A-style connector.
A single wire has to be added to the old harness for the VTEC solenoid, and two more need to be added for the electronic air control valve mounted on the plenum (one of these wires is for power and the other for a data signal to the ECU).
The only other line that needs to be added to the harness is a power wire that goes from the fusible link (mounted on the right-hand shock tower) back to the ECU. This power wire is used to keep 12-volts at the ECU for memory retention. Don't forget to do this.
Once you've made these modifications (or purchased a pre-made harness) it should be re-mounted back on to the engine. When you start making all of the connections, however, you will notice that there will be a few of the existing wires that won't quite reach where they should, or perhaps end up in slightly the wrong place. Don't worry; this is par-for-the-swap-course. The trick is to trial-fit the harness, measure and mark all the mismatched wires, and then remove it from the engine. Make all of your wiring modifications on a workbench where you can do a nice job of it, and then return it to the engine for final fitting. Besides wire length and routing changes, remember that some of the wiring end connectors will have to be changed over to the new style, too, at this point. These include the TPS and the O2 sensor.
The final change to the electrical system is to replace the stock ECU with a modified 1988-'89 Integra aftermarket unit. Ours came from Zdyne. The stock CRX ECU resides underneath the passenger seat, and it's a simple matter to disconnect the wiring to the old unit, unbolt the housing from the body, and drop the new unit in its place. Then, connect the wiring and you're finished.
Exhaust SystemTo connect the exhaust plumbing, your best bet is to tow the car to an exhaust shop. You can make the connections yourself, but it's much easier to let the pros mate everything and seal all the leaks. While you're at the exhaust shop, keep in mind that Brian Gillespie at HASport strongly recommends that if you're still running the stock CRX exhaust tubing, you should seriously consider replacing it with a new, 2.25-inch mandrel-bent system. This is perhaps the weakest link in the hybrid if you leave it stock. If you don't upgrade now, you'll have a significant breathing problem that will result in reduced power. More importantly, however, the car will have a higher chance of detonating with all that backpressure of the stock exhaust plumbing.
Cooling SystemYou can now reinstall the radiator fan and connect the radiator to the new engine. Pick up a set of new upper and lower radiator hoses from a 1992 Integra GS-R, and they'll bolt with just a bit of trimming. The amount to cut will be obvious when you try to install them. Once in place, tighten everything and you are ready to fill the engine with coolant.
Clutch And Shifter LinkageThe stock CRX shift rods are too short and will not work very well with the new transmission and stock CRX shifter. To fix this, you will need to either buy custom lengthened 1986-'89 Integra rods (like we did from HASport), or modify some '86-'89 Integra rods. If you choose the latter route, you will have to increase the shifter rod length by about 0.25-inch, and the compensation rod (the one that doesn't move) by approximately 0.5-inch.
The other thing you have to replace is the stock CRX clutch cable. We've already removed the original cable, so now is the time to install a 1988 Civic cable. This new cable has the correct end fitting that is required for mating with the B16A tranny.
Remaining IssuesNow that all the big items are in place, it's time to finish connecting all of the other remaining life-support systems, fuel connections, belts, hoses, and countless little stuff that somehow didn't seem so numerous when you were ripping it out of the car. It's also time to finish connecting the wiring harness and filling the engine and tranny with lube. Most of this work is self-explanatory, but there are a few things you should keep in mind.
The stock CRX brake booster hose probably won't reach to the vacuum fitting on the intake plenum. You can solve this with either simple 5/16-inch vacuum line from the local auto-parts store (like we did), or you can scrounge a genuine Honda brake booster hose from a 1988 CRX Si. The hood-latch support brace and radiator fan can also be reinstalled at this time.
As we've said before, this is a damn big powerplant for the tiny CRX engine bay. Everything fits fairly well, but invariably there's some "tweaking" you have to do. For instance, some minor stock hoses may not line up with the new engine, so you might have to get a bit creative with non-stock or replacement parts for a finished look. It's all minor stuff that's left, but you have to get it hooked up or the car won't run right.
You can also finish making all of the wiring connections at this point. A trip to the alignment shop (remember, we put new knuckles and hubs in the car, which has therefore likely upset the toe-settings) is also called for before you go any further.
Once that's done, you're ready to fire the car up, right? Wrong. We've said it before, and we'll say it again: Now is the time to have a qualified friend look over the installation. This brief pause is known as a "sanity check" in industry, and it serves a vital purpose.
Trust us: It's all too common for those doing the actual work on a car to overlook the simplest and/or most obvious things. That's why now is the ideal time to bring your best car-savvy friends over to show off your handiwork. Step back and ask them to take a thorough look through the car and point out what, if anything, you've missed. They'll feel important, and you'll make sure that nothing is askew. Chances are your buddies won't find anything too serious, but a little embarrassment is preferable to, say, starting the car without oil in it, right? You obviously don't have to start the car for the first time with friends around, but don't say we didn't warn you.
Now it's time to go for it. Check fuel pressure, battery connections, and all the usual stuff before turning the key. Hold your breath, knock on wood, rub your lucky rabbit's foot, or whatever helps you get through it. There's nothing like the feeling of a big, new engine firing up for the first time-especially in a featherweight car like the CRX.
Summing UpSo, swapping a B16A into a third-gen CRX wasn't too bad, was it? With a bit of hard-earned cash and a long weekend or two, you too, can drop 1.6 liters of Honda's finest into a CRX without a lot of pain. It's a fairly straightforward process, given the right amount of patience and coaching of course, and you'll end up with a very potent Honda. A few weeks after we left HASport, Brian installed a limited-slip differential in the car and drove it to the drag strip, where it ran low 14s right out of the box. Remember, too, that this was all in Phoenix, where the air temperature was over 100 degrees and the elevation of the track is around 1800 feet. At sea level on a cool day, the diminutive CRX would be easily running in the 13s-and surprising a lot of competitors along the way.
Before you run off and start making plans for a similar displacement-replacement project, remember to research and plan the entire process in detail beforehand. Like we always say, take a deep breath and get a firm grip on your wallet-and emotions. Swapping an engine, even with a well-engineered kit and expert advice, is generally fraught with a myriad of little extra expenses and headaches you didn't count on.
A well-thought-out plan, a good place to work, and the right attitude are the ideal first steps to the process. Hope for the best, but expect (and plan) for the worst. Having your car torn apart for weeks on end, while you battle the silliest little odds and ends are what the game is all about. Just accept it, and you'll finish the project with some semblance of sanity left over-not to mention that all-important thing we told you to repeat over and over at the beginning: Power-to-weight, power-to-weight, power-to-weight. Yeeee-Hawww!
Swap BasicsChassis: 3rd-Generation 1986 CRX SiVery lightweight, very basic (MacPherson struts with Torsion bars and straight rear axle.) An extensive race history and the fact that aftermarket suspension and brake upgrades are still available mean you can actually make the chassis handle the new power.Engine: 1st-Generation Japanese Domestic Market (JDM) B16ADrivetrain.Lightweight drivetrain, high power from stock engine, and nearly unlimited aftermarket options and suppliers for upgrades.ConcernsRetaining air conditioning is both difficult and expensive. May be difficult to get JDM engine smog ceritfied. ('90-'91 Integra is an acceptable, smog-legal subtitute)Only the Si model is wired for fuel injection: DX and HF chassis should be avoided.
Drivetrain Mounting Parts* Motor mount kit:HASport p/n # M84-B16-10 Approx Cost = $649* Rear engine bracket:1999-'00 Civic Si Honda Approx Cost = $50* (optional) Clutch:1990-'91 Integra parts. Disc p/n #22200 PR3 030, pressure plate p/n #22300-PR4 020, throw out bearing p/n #22810 PS1 015 Approx cost = $230 new* (optional) Timing belt:1994-97 del Sol VTEC part p/n #14400 PR3 004. Approx cost = $60 new* (optional) Water pump:1994-97 del Sol VTEC part p/n #19200 P30 0003. Approx cost = $105 new
Drivetrain Connection* Axles: HASport p/n #A84-B16 Approx cost =$250.* Intermediate shaft: 1990 Integra intermediate shaftApprox cost = $75 from salvage yard.* Constant Velocity Joints:1986-89 Integra CVs Approx cost = $100-150 from salvage yard.* Knuckles and hubs: 1986-89 Integra knuckles and hubsApprox cost = $50 each from salvage yard.
Engine Management Parts* Electrical harness kit: HASport p/n #W84-B16Approx cost = $250, exchange.* ECU: ZDyne, LLC p/n #B16AON Approx cost = $350 plus 1988-89 core charge.
Exhaust System Parts* (Optional, but recommended) New exhaust system.Custom 2-1/4" exhaust system. Approx cost = $200-300.
Cooling System Parts* Radiator hoses: 1992 GS-R upper and lower hoses p/# 19501-PR3-000 and 19502-PR4A00. Approx cost = $45
Remaining Issues* Throttle cable: 1990 Integra throttle cableApprox cost = $25-50 from salvage yard.* Speed Sending Unit: 1988-91 CRX speedometer sending unit. Approx cost = $10-15 from salvage yard.* Brake booster hose: 1988 CR-X Si brake booster hose Approx cost = $5-10 from salvage yard.