What And WhyHang around enough garages and you'll eventually hear the bench-racing clichs: "There's no replacement for displacement," or "There's no substitute for cubic inches," or "Bigger is quicker and smaller is slower." One of our own personal favorites heard recently was "Your torque is only as fat as your engine." As annoying as these sayings might be, let's face it, there's some truth buried in the words. Small displacement, high-revving engines may be a ton of fun, but to build maximum power (and torque) in the naturally aspirated world, the old timers have been right all along. With everything else equal, there really is no replacement for displacement. And upping the cc's in your Honda has never been easier, thanks to a burgeoning supply of aftermarket bolt-in swap kits and some very clever parts interchanging.
Which brings us to this month's swap. One of the largest four-cylinder engines that Honda produces is the beefy H22A. This VTEC-equipped, DOHC 2.2-liter engine has been available since 1993 in U.S.-market Preludes and Japanese Domestic Market (JDM) Preludes and Accord SiRs. A number of one-off Civic swaps have been done with this engine, but recently aftermarket engine tuners and builders have perfected the science of bolting these big cubic-inch beasts into street Civics. We wanted to find out more about large displacement Hondas and the H22A seemed like the perfect candidate for testing the old displacement-replacement truism. As luck would have it, we got to spend a recent weekend stuffing one of these JDM engines in between the fenderwells of a 1992 Civic.
Our transplant recipient for the swap was a worn-out CX model that was purchased with the idea of running it on road-courses in a regional Arizona SCCA "RS" class. While we loved the reliability and simplicity of the little car in its stock factory condition, the venerable Civic could hardly get out of its own way, let alone be competitive on the track. The CX isn't the lightest car Honda ever made and its engine came stock from the factory with a paltry 70 hp and barely enough torque to unscrew a pickle-jar. It didn't take long to conclude that a bigger engine was in order. Enter the H22A. Compare the meager output of the stock Civic to the JDM-spec H22A upgrade engine-which is rated at 200 hp at 6800 rpm, or more than 185% greater than stock-and you'll understand why this project whetted our appetite so much. Even better, the upgrade only added about 180 pounds to the front end of the car. While any amount of additional weight is the enemy of performance, the overall power-to-weight ratio gain of the swap is still a titanic improvement over stock.
Who And WhereHASport Performance (and its sister organization, Honda Auto Salvage) in Phoenix has been stuffing big and small engines into Hondas and Acuras for nearly a decade. This aftermarket supplier makes bolt-in mount kits and wiring harnesses for many of the typical Honda swaps. Recently, we heard that HASport was making a swap kit for the H22A/Civic hybrid. Hmm...this sounded rather interesting. One thing led to another and, as these projects often happen, SCC suddenly found itself baking in the Valley of the Sun with Brian Gillespie, Tim Beadle (of Arizona Performance Imports) and the stalwart crew at HASport. Our goal was to transplant a JDM-spec Prelude H22A into a rather non-descript, hugger-orange CX that came to Gillespie's shop through a theft-recovery deal. The car had been hit at least once before in its undistinguished previous life. Fortunately, the damage was slight enough to warrant keeping the car. (Note: because the H22A is a large engine and is such a tight fit in the diminutive Civic engine bay, it pays to ensure that you have a fairly straight frame as a starting point. Our car had some residual body damage from its criminally owned period, but the engine was still able to clear everything when lowered into the car. This may not always be the case, however. It makes sense to ensure that your Civic is straight and within factory specs before beginning a tight shoehorn project like this).
The engine mount system that we used for the swap was HASport's engine and transmission mount kit, part number M92-H22-10, which comes with all the brackets and hardware needed to bolt any H- or F-series engine into a 1992-95 Civic or 1994 and up Integra. The kit impressed us with its high quality parts fabricated from CNC-machined and TIG-welded 6061-T6 aluminum and low carbon steel. The mount bushings are also of very stiff and high-grade urethane (vs. the squishy OEM rubber parts), and results in solid traction hook-up off the line. These firmer bushings are available in a couple of different durometer specs from HASport, and they result in a high-performance "feel" that's hard to describe. Call us twisted, but when an import has 200 ponies galloping under the hood, we love the subtle race-type vibrations communicated back to the driver.
To complete the swap, we also used HASport's prototype electrical harness kit. For the do-it-yourselfers, modifying an existing Civic harness is a lengthy, but more-or-less straightforward process that can be undertaken with a minimal amount of pain. For those afraid of solder and crimpers, however, HASport will offer the wiring harness as a kit by late summer of this year.
Finishing up the caveats, there's a bunch of miscellaneous stuff like axles and radiator hoses that you'll need to purchase from a salvage yard or Honda. We've included tables in each main part of this article that lists most of the major items that have to be rounded up. You might also have to scrounge a few additional minor things along the way, depending, of course, on the car and condition of the donor engine.
OK, so that's the good news: you can essentially buy all the parts needed for this monster engine transplant through a combination of aftermarket suppliers, salvage yards and your friendly Honda dealer parts counter. But alas, there's some not-so-good news that requires consideration if you're thinking about this engine. First of all, forget about retaining air-conditioning with an H22A stuffed under the hood of your Civic. To be blunt, this engine is huge. It completely fills the engine bay. The A/C condenser sits exactly in the same spot that the H22A A/C compressor wants to reside. We're not saying it's impossible to relocate the condenser, but it's going to require some creative sheet-metal modifications to do so.
Another area of concern relates to power steering. Our CX Civic didn't come with a power rack, so it wasn't an issue for us. If your EX, LX or Si does have power steering, however, you'll need to get used to the thought of non-assisted steering. Again, it's not impossible to incorporate power steering, but there are going to be some interference issues to deal with, including a not-so-minor problem of the H22A power-steering pump poking up into the reinforcement on the underside of the stock Civic hood. To convert a power-steering-equipped Civic to non-assisted steering, you have a couple of choices. First, you can simply disconnect and remove the hydraulic lines and plug off the existing power-rack fittings. This retains a faster steering ratio, but will require more effort to turn the wheel. The other option is to simply swap out your existing rack (and rear engine cross-member) for a non-powered unit. This will result in a slower steering ratio, but will have a lighter (easier) steering effort. This is more of a personal preference issue than anything else.
Picking The ChassisThe 1992-1995 fifth generation Civics are all quite similar, there isn't really any one model that you should look for. There are some minor differences, however, that can make your project a little simpler. The wiring will be easiest, for example, with a VX model. The VX, Si and EX already have VTEC, so the VTEC wires are already there. The VX, however, is the only one with an EGR valve. If you use any other models, you simply have a add a few wires to the harness.
The other major difference between models is brakes. The Si and EX models had larger front brakes than the lesser trim levels and the Si had rear discs as well. All ABS equipped cars had the four-wheel discs as well.
Picking The EngineThis engine swap will work with any H22, H23, the rare twincam F22, or even the exceptionally rare H20 from Europe's Accord Type R. Power varies from as low as 160 hp for the non-VTEC H23 to more than 220 hp for some of the JDM H22s. As is typical with Honda engines, the variations are so numerous that putting together a comprehensive spotters guide is nearly impossible. There are some major changes to be aware of, however.
For domestic drivetrains, the '92 to '96 Prelude VTEC had a close-ratio gearbox that made much better use of the engine's powerband. For JDM powertrains, any Prelude gearbox with a limited slip differential will have the same close gear ratios. Limited-slip differentials can be easily spotted by removing the axles and looking through the center of the differential. With the limited-slip, you will be able to see straight through to the other side, while the pinion gear shaft will block the view through the open-differential. Unless you want to take on a substantial electronics project, the ATTS system from the Prelude SH should probably be avoided.
Engines built before 1996 also had a closed-deck block, making these the better choice for turbocharging. The large-displacement non-VTEC H23 may also be a good turbo candidate.
The Accord-based twin cam F22 looks identical to an H22, but it comes with a blue valve cover. The F22 is less powerful than the Japanese-market H22s. If you find a red valve cover, however, you have found a rare Type R engine. Get one if you can. Finally, unless the price is extremely favorable, don't be tempted by a automatic-equipped engine. Though you can still bolt on a manual transmission, automatic Preludes were down between 10 and 40 hp compared with the manual-equipped counterparts.
Engine Removal And Car Prep WorkAssuming you've got all your parts purchased and a well-organized place to work, the first thing that (obviously) needs to be done is to remove the old drivetrain. The steps required to do this could fill a small book. In fact, this is probably your best course of action if you've never done it before. The factory manual is the ideal reference, but most car-specific workshop manuals generally have entire chapters dedicated to removing the engine and transmission. These manuals cover everything from unbolting the engine and removing the axles, to draining the oil and water. Regardless of the type of manual, however, the real secret is to take your time, stay organized and try not to break anything.
After you've got the old engine and transmission out, you have a few other things that need to be done. The front wheels and tires have to be removed and the car securely placed on jack stands and blocks. The old engine and transmission mounts (three total) have to be removed from the car. To get the right-hand frame rail bracket out, you will have to drill the spot welds and then air-chisel it off. Underneath the bottom of the frame rail, you will also have to remove the lower transmission mount snubber tab. Drilling the welds and air-chiseling works on this one, too.
As we mentioned, you should plan on removing all of the A/C stuff from the car. While you're at it, pull the radiator and fan from the car. You can possibly re-use the radiator (unless you live in a hot climate like Phoenix, or plan on keeping your foot planted to the floor with the new engine...OK, you're right. Throw that radiator in the trash now and plan on upgrading it). The fan also has to be replaced with a more compact unit. This is because the H22A is so much wider than the stock engine.
You should also remove the old shifter assembly and shift rods at this point. You won't be using either of them, so just yank 'em and toss. Another thing that has to come off now is the inner (short-side) heater hose, where it attaches to the heater core. Be careful, though, because it's all-too easy to damage the heater core if you pull on it too hard with pliers. The best way to get it off is to simply slice the rubber at the heater core tube with a sharp utility knife, and then peel it back. Replacement rubber hoses are cheap when compared with the price of a damaged heater core.
Another thing that should be done with the engine out of the car is to relocate the fuel filter on the firewall. The stock CX fuel filter can be used with the H22A, but there will be a minor interference between the hard inlet line to the fuel filter and the air intake tube that feeds the H22A throttle body. Moving the entire filter assembly a few inches toward the passenger side of the car usually does the trick.
The last thing that you need to do before starting in on the new engine is to spend some time and elbow grease cleaning up (and painting, if necessary) the Civic engine bay. A small amount of time spent now making things pretty will pay off later.
Mounting The New DrivetrainBefore jumping right in on the swap, and while you still have your new engine/transmission sitting alone by itself outside of the car, it's a good time to consider changing the clutch. Your import engine may have low miles on it, but the truth is that you really don't know how hard the previous owner was on the clutch. Removing and replacing (R&R) the clutch at this point is cheap insurance and certainly easier to do now than later. You don't want to find out that the clutch needs replacement the first weekend after you finally get the car back on the road, do you?
Another thing to R&R at this point is the timing belt and water pump. Again, this may not be necessary, and you can certainly do this swap later with the new engine in the car, but the ease of doing it now (not to mention the peace of mind that comes with new parts) will be worth the extra time and money invested.
Now is also the time to start stripping the unnecessary parts and other equipment that have to temporarily (or permanently) come off the engine. Start with the A/C compressor (if equipped with one) and pull the power steering pump, too. And while you're at it, carefully remove the throttle body from the intake manifold and seal off the big hole on the end of the plenum. When lowering the engine into the car, it's all too easy to ding the delicate Throttle Position Sensor (TPS) that's attached to the throttle body. The H22-type TPS isn't readily available in the United States without spending serious bucks, so this is another one of those peace-of-mind deals.
Next, remove the two large vertical studs that protrude up from the top right part of the transmission. These studs will be replaced with the bolts that come with the HASport kit when the engine/transmission gets lowered into the car.
Installing the new engine and transmission into the engine bay can be done with the exhaust manifold left in place, but it's a lot easier to temporarily remove it and set it aside. Now is also the time to install the modified wiring harness onto the engine (see the engine management section, below). While not impossible with the engine in the car, it's much simpler to install the harness and make all the electrical connections and routings with plenty of working space all around the engine.
Installing the new engine is much easier up from the bottom than down from the top. This is the way Honda does it with all its cars in the factory and if you have a vehicle lift available, it's generally easier this way. But don't worry: lowering the drivetrain in through the top isn't all that much harder and only requires a few additional steps. This is how it's done: Strictly speaking, the hood can stay on the car, but it might be a good idea to remove it anyway. This is because it gives you a tad more access and working room around the engine bay.
To pick the engine up, use the factory lifting point at the right rear of the transmission. For the other lift point, we used one of the big tapped holes in the left front part of the cylinder head. These 10mm holes are plenty strong enough for lifting the relatively lightweight powerplant. Just be careful when routing the lifting straps or chains across the engine. If you're not careful, it's easy to damage things like the radiator neck, distributor, VTEC solenoids and other little parts and doodads that populate the top of the engine. The trick again is to go slowly and make adjustments to lifting cable lengths.
It's time now to lift and lower the engine/transmission into the car. Once it's hanging in the engine compartment, move it forward as far as possible. This will allow adequate room to install the new rear engine adapter plate that came with the kit to the frame behind the engine. When the plate is in place, fully tighten all the bolts securing it to the frame. Next install the rear mount on the plate. Install the rear transmission bracket onto the engine and transmission, inserting only the top bolt at this time. Then, slide the engine backward and the bracket onto the rear engine mount and install the long through bolt. Do not tighten any of the rear bracket bolts yet. Install the left side engine mount, tightening up everything except the long central bolt that passes through the urethane bushings and the car mounts.
Now, being careful to watch for interferences, carefully lower the entire engine down slightly on the lifter. Because two of the three new mounts have just been installed (with slightly loose bolts), the engine will actually pivot downward on its right side as the lifting crane is lowered. We want to lower the right side down far enough to slide in the right-hand transmission mounting-bracket through the right fender well. Once this is done, slide the mount onto the bracket and then the engine can be raised back up on the crane and attached with the remaining bolts. After inserting the rest of the rear transmission bolts, all the mounting hardware can be fully tightened. You can now remove the lifting straps or chains. Voil, you have the engine and tranny in the car!
Connecting The DrivetrainOnce the new engine and transmission are in place, the next problem is getting all that power to the ground. Unfortunately, you can't use the stock CX axles, or even the ones that came with the Prelude engine. Instead, you basically have two routes you can take. The first option is to use a 1990 Accord intermediate shaft, along with 1990-93 Integra axles. This is by far the easiest route and it's the way that most people go.
The other option is to use a 1992 Prelude intermediate shaft, a 1990+ Integra right axle, and then purchase a custom axle for the left side. This custom axle is created by using a 1992 Prelude inner-joint and a 1990+ Integra outer joint on an 1986-'89 Integra axle shaft. This custom axle can be purchased from Raxles. While certainly more of a hassle (as well as more costly), the advantage of this second route is that you end up with a stronger drivetrain.
Engine ManagementSeveral wires on the existing Civic engine harness need to be lengthened and/or re-routed. The easiest way to do this is to simply mount the harness on the engine while it's out of the car. Measure and mark all of the pieces that have to be changed, then remove and make the modifications on a workbench. These required "tweaks" include the following:
1. The five wires that attach to the alternator need to be lengthened. There is no change to the connector, but the stock Civic cable won't physically reach to the new alternator.
2. The single wire that attaches to the oil-sending unit (idiot light sensor) needs to be changed slightly to reach its new sensor.
3. The wiring that attaches to the starter solenoid will require lengthening.
4. The four fuel injector connectors need to be swapped to the H22A-style connectors. The new injectors are low impedence units, so a resistor from a Prelude or Accord needs to be added.
5. The reverse light sensor connector (that is mounted on the transmission) requires changing to an H22A-type.
Additionally, there are a bunch of extra wires that need to be added to the Civic engine harness. Here's a summary of these additional wires that are required:
1. The H22A ECU requires a four-wire O2 sensor. The Civic CX, however, came stock from the factory with a single wire sensor. When laying out the new harness, you have to add three additional wires and route them along the path of the original wire. You will also have to change the connector to the four-pin style.
2. The VTEC system on the new engine has two things that require wiring. The first is the VTEC oil pressure sensor, which needs a ground wire and signal line. The VTEC system also has a solenoid valve that's used to reroute the oil to the second set of cam lobes. This is a single lead that runs from the engine back to the ECU. The Civic didn't come with VTEC, but its ECU is pre-configured to accept inputs from an engine with this feature.
3. The new H22 engine incorporates a knock sensor, which is mounted at the rear of the engine up near the cylinder head. A single wire has to be added to the wiring harness to support the sensor. Again, the Civic ECU connector has provisions for accepting this input.
4. For U.S.-type ECUs, there are five additional wires that have to be added to the harness. Two of these are used by the EGR lift valve solenoid (voltage and ECU signal) and the other three are for the lift sensor (voltage, ground and ECU signal). If you're using an ECU from a JDM-spec Prelude, these additional EGR input wires are optional.
5. The air intake bypass solenoid (which is used to turn on and off the vacuum valve), requires two additional wires (voltage and ECU signal).
In addition to all of the wiring changes already mentioned, there is possibly a distributor problem that might require some work. If you're installing a true JDM-spec engine, you're in luck. These engines come from the factory with an internal coil-type distributor and it will wire directly up to the Civic harness without any changes. On the other hand, if you're swapping in a U.S.-type H22A, you might have an external coil distributor. Unfortunately, finding an internal-type distributor in the United States is fairly difficult and the external coil-type units won't work with the Civic harness without modification. The easiest way to address this problem is to source a 1992-'93 Accord distributor and remove its internal electronic package. These parts can then be fitted to the Prelude distributor to convert it to an internal-coil-type unit. This is done by simply unscrewing and then transplanting the guts of the Accord distributor into the Prelude distributor. You may have to do a bit of minor cutting and soldering, but the process is fairly self-explanatory when the two distributors are sitting side by side on the bench.
Another important thing to note (now that we've explained all of the required changes and additions to the wiring), is that HASport is now selling a wiring kit that incorporates most of these changes. It's really your call: making the modifications yourself isn't too difficult, but it does take extra time that you could be spending on other parts of the project. Depending on your skills and time available, buying a pre-made harness with all of the correct connectors and wire lengths might make sense.
Exhaust SystemConnecting the exhaust system is a job best left to the professionals. We towed our car down to the local muffler shop and let them shorten the stock Civic exhaust pipe the required amount. They also put together a custom flange that mated the exhaust to the intake manifold. The other option would have been to shorten the down pipe on the H22 exhaust manifold. While this would work, it would probably result in a slight power loss when the stock header's tuning.
Cooling SystemFor our car, we replaced the stock radiator with a bigger-core-type radiator from a 1994-'00 Integra. As we mentioned earlier, this radiator upgrade isn't absolutely required, but our car is going to be used for part-time road racing in Phoenix. Summer temperatures routinely exceed 100 degrees Fahrenheit in the desert valley, so it made sense to improve the cooling system. To make this bigger radiator fit, we had to fabricate some simple sheet metal brackets to hold it in place. Alternatively, we could have cut the mounting brackets off of the radiator donor car and have them welded them in place in the Civic engine bay.
Regardless of the type of radiator, however, you have to use a thinner electric fan. The old stock fan is much too thick to clear between the H22A engine and the radiator. We replaced our fan with a slick '92-'00 Civic unit made by FAL Import Cooling Technologies.
Clutch And Shift LinkageWhen re-attaching the new clutch slave cylinder to the existing Civic plumbing, you may have to fuss a bit with the metal hydraulic line that runs through the engine bay. The problem stems from the fact that the H22 has a larger, more prominent starter that bulges out at the front of the engine and the clutch line has to pass out in front of it. Unfortunately, every car seems to be slightly different from the next one, so the only suggestion we can make is that you take your time and gently bend the line as necessary. Trust us, kinking or breaking this line is a great way to ruin your weekend.
And while we're on the subject of bad news, the stock Civic rod shifter and linkage won't work with the new engine. As a result, you have to replace it with a complete cable shifter system from a fourth-generation 1990-'93 Accord or 1992-'96 Prelude. The real problem, however, is that the new shifter bolts down to the top of the tunnel from inside the car, while the old CX shifter was suspended from underneath. This means that you have to make some modifications (read: big holes) to the tunnel inside the car.
Basically what it boils down to is: (1), you have to cut a 2x3-1/2-inch hole at the front of the tunnel to feed the cables into the passenger compartment; and (2), you have to cut a bigger rectangular-shaped hole (and drill mounting holes around it), further back on the tunnel for attaching the new shifter. The best way to do this is to make a cardboard template based on the new shift mechanism. You can then use the template to transfer the required cuts inside the car onto the tunnel of the Civic. This isn't a big deal, but you definitely want to take your time and do this right the first time. We made our cuts with a Sawzall and die-grinder and they turned out pretty well. Keep in mind too, that when you're cutting these holes, you'll eventually have to seal the new shifter and cable when you're finished. Pay attention, go slow and don't screw up. Once you've got this done, you can feed the cables through the smaller hole, bolt in the new shifter and complete all the connections at the transmission.
To make things a little bit simpler, future HASport mount kits will come with a template so you won't have to make your own cardboard one.
Remaining IssuesNow that the big items are in place, it's time to start connecting back up all of the remaining life-support systems, fuel connections, belts, hoses and countless other stuff that somehow didn't seem so numerous when you were ripping it out of the car. It's also time to finish connecting the wiring harness and then fill the engine with fluids. Most of this work is self-explanatory, but there are a few things you should keep in mind.
For starters, the stock H22A fuel rail has its fuel fittings facing the wrong way, with the supply and return ends swapped left and right when compared with the CX rail. Some guys doing this swap simply route longer flex lines across the top of the manifold to connect up the fuel system correctly, but we think this looks, well, kind of cheesy. The trick way to get around the problem is to swap in a fuel rail from a 1990-'93 Accord. The Accord rail has the supply and return reversed, which allows the stock CX fuel hose to bolt right up. And did we say it looks better, too?
The Civic throttle cable also doesn't quite reach correctly, so we used a 1998 Prelude cable to connect to the throttle body. We also had to use a different alternator belt; in this case, we purchased a belt at the local NAPA dealer.
The H22 Prelude engine has an Exhaust Gas Re-circulation system, so we needed a 1992-'95 Civic VX EGR solenoid valve (the VX is the only Civic model that has EGR). We also used a MAP sensor from a 1992 Civic DX to send manifold pressure data to the ECU.
At this point, you're ready to fire the car up, right? Wrong. The last step in the process is to have a qualified friend or two look over your work. Trust us: failing to do so can and will result in a classic case of "pride cometh before the fall." If you want to risk start-up without someone else objectively looking over your work, then by all means go ahead and roll the dice. But in our opinion (and hard-won experience), this is the ideal time to bring your best gear-head friends over and show off your handiwork. Step back and ask them to take a thorough look through the car. Have them point out what, if anything, you've missed. Chances are your friends will find something minor that you've forgotten. But don't think it's just the little stuff that can get missed. Uninstalled axles and non-connected fuel rails have, uh, occasionally been known to happen (and no, we're not naming names). Regardless, it's very useful to have a second set of eyeballs look things over and ask pointed questions.
OK, now it's time to go for it. Check fuel pressure, battery connections and all the usual stuff before turning the key. Hold your breath, knock on wood, rub your lucky rabbit foot or whatever else helps you get through it. There's nothing like the feeling of a big new engine firing up for the first time.
Summing UpSwapping an H22A into a CX doesn't sound too bad, does it? With some hard-earned cash and a long weekend or two, you can drop 2.2-liters of Honda's finest into your Civic and nearly triple your horsepower. Given the right amount of patience, time and money, it's a fairly straightforward process. But before you run off and start making plans for a similar displacement-replacement project, remember to research and plan the entire process out in detail beforehand. Take a deep breath and get a grip on your wallet and emotions. Swapping an engine, even with a well-engineered kit and expert advice, is generally fraught with a myriad of extra expenses and headaches you didn't count on at the beginning. Having a well-thought-out plan, a good place to work and the right attitude are the ideal first steps to take in the process. Hope for the best, but expect (and plan) for the worst. Having your car torn apart for weeks on end, while you battle the stupidest little problems are what the game is all about. Just accept it and you'll finish the project with some semblance of sanity left over-not to mention 200 new ponies galloping under the hood...
Swap BasicsChassis: fifth Generation Honda Civic CXRelatively lightweight, excellent double-wishbone suspension, abundant aftermarket chassis, body and interior parts, and an extensive race history mean you can easily make the chassis handle the newfound power.
Engine: 1993 Honda Prelude H22AHuge power and torque out of the box, and countless aftermarket options for more. The H22 has less support than the ubiquitous B-series Honda engines, but there is still more support than for most other non-Hondas.
Concerns:This swap is a tight fit, so be sure the chassis is straight or the engine might not squeeze between the frame rails! Air conditioning won't fit and power steering won't fit with a stock hood. Some sheet metal must be removed from the transmission tunnel to convert from the Civic's rod shifter to the Prelude's cable shifter.
Drivetrain Mounting Parts* Engine Mounts: HASport Mount Kit: M92-H22-10 or equivalent. Approx. cost= $650.
* (optional) Clutch: 1993 Prelude pressure plate No.22300 P13 005, Disc No. 22200 P13 005,Throw-out bearing No. 22810 P21 003.Approx. cost = $300.
* (optional) Timing Belt No. 14400 P13 000.Approx. cost = $60.
* (optional) Water Pump No. 19200 P13 000. Approx. cost = $140.
Drivetrain * Intermediate Shaft from 1990 Accord, used with left and right axles from 1990-93 Integra. Approx. total cost for all parts = $150-250 from salvage yard. Or
* Intermediate Shaft: 1992 Prelude.Approx. cost = $100 used
* Right axle: 1990+ Integra axle. Approx. cost = $100 used
* Left axle: Custom part created from 1992 Prelude inner joint, 1990-and-up Integra outer joint, and 1986-89 Integra axle shaft. Approx. cost = $170 purchased from Raxles.
Engine Management Parts* Distributor: 1992-93 Accord Distributor (if required for internal coil conversion). Approx. Cost = $100-200 from salvage yard.
* Engine Wiring: HASport Kit: W92-H22 or equivalent.Approx. cost = $300 + core exchange.
Cooling System Parts* Radiator Hoses: 1992 Integra LS upper hose No. 19501-PR3-000, and 1994 Del Sol VTEC lower hose No. 19502-P30-000. Approx. cost = $15 each.
* Radiator Fan: FAL Import Cooling Technology, or equiv alent fan. Ours was for a 1992-'00 Honda Civic replacement. Approx. cost =$60-100 depending on brand.
* Radiator: 1994 GS-R No. 190010 P72 A03 or Type R No. 19010 P73 A02. Approx. cost = $450. (note: radiator is not strictly required for street applications),
Shift Linkage Parts* Shifter and Cable shift linkage: '90-'93 Accord or '92-'96 Prelude shifter with cables. Approx. Cost = $100-150 from salvage yard.
Engine Management Parts* Fuel Rail: 1990-'93 Accord rail No. 16610 PT3 A00 Approx. cost = $171.03
* Throttle cable: 1998 Prelude cable, No. 17910-S30-A02. Approx. cost= $15-20)
* Exhaust Gas Recirculation Valve: 1992-'95 Civic VX EGR solenoid valve No. 17290 PY3 901. Approx. cost= $20 at salvage yard, or new $57.50.
* EGR valve bracket: 1992-95 Civic VX No. 36033 PO4 004 $33.32
* Manifold Pressure (MAP) Sensor. 1992-'95 Civic DX MAP No. 37830 PR3 003. Approx. cost = $280.93.
* MAP sensor mounting bracket. No. 36033 PO4 G01 Approx. cost = $12.00
* Alternator Belt. NAPA No. 25 060370. Approx. cost = $20