The JICs are still on Project Silvia, they still work brilliantly on the track, and they're still a little on the rough side for the street. I'm not confident you can maintain this level of handling with a cushier ride, unless you step up to a more expensive, double-adjustable, remote reservoir setup, so that's where I'm planning to dump my next big bucket of cash. A master of the green like you should probably take a cheaper route. KYB AGX shocks are surprisingly cheap and work pretty well. Combine them with the tallest, stiffest lowering springs you can find (too low and the bump stops will ruin your handling) and a good set of adjustable anti-roll bars and you should have a decent rough-road setup that can still be dialed in to handle.
The Whiteline anti-roll bar is still there, and with a half-inch of scrap steel jammed under pivot bushing mounts to lower the bar, it manages to clear the Tomei pan. The solution is not ideal, but it works well enough for this lazy mofo.
Were the Falkens enough tire? Is there such a thing as enough? For the money, they were unbeatable, but the old Azenis Sport RT215 has been discontinued and the new RT615 is both more expensive and stickier. All else being equal, I would have gone to the RT615, but I had to put the hurt on Kojima's Project 300ZX TT, and R-compound tires were a necessary step. The change in size is just because Toyo doesn't make an RA-1 in 225/45-17.
The wider tires rub just a bit in the top of the front wheelwells under hard cornering and extreme compression; dropping down the corkscrew at Laguna Seca, for example. As for whether 225s were enough, that's impossible to answer. They were great until I stepped up to something stickier. Now that I've experienced the insane grip and flexible breakaway of the RA-1, though, I can't go back to street tires.
The exact offset will be a little different with AGXs instead of coilovers, as the non-coilover strut has a smaller diameter and the spring perch hangs over the tire. Wish I could be more specific for you, but offset selection sucks. My solution is usually to err on the side of higher offset and use high-quality spacers and longer wheel studs if I need the wheels farther out. If you use too low an offset, there's no way to move the wheel inboard.
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